DIY: Springtime RV Maintenance

Question: I waited until late in the year to get my camper out of storage and now the dealerships are booked out past Memorial Day, and I have a campsite reserved. Can I perform the required maintenance on my camper myself?

The camper has survived the winter and it’s time to bring it out of winter storage. It is not uncommon that customers find the dealerships are booked solid this time of year. Scheduling any maintenance or repairs can be difficult! Luckily, though, much of the recommended maintenance for your camper can be done yourself.

We talked about sanitizing and flushing the water system in an earlier (March 2025) blog, but if you don’t have that document, just contact the dealership for the procedure. The system should be flushed with diluted bleach at least once a year and the best time to do it is at the beginning of the camping season.

If the water heater is a tank-filled type, flush the tank by running clear water through it with the drain open. The sediments will flow out of the drain until you see clear clean water.

Be sure you have the proper chemicals for your holding tanks before your first trip! Check the dump valves operate easily, then close them before you travel.

But what else needs done?

The water system is one of three “systems” that need attention. The other two are the Propane System and the Electrical System.

Propane System:

Every couple of years or so, the propane system regulator should be checked for proper adjustment. That can only be done by a qualified RV technician, however, if it was checked within a year or so previously, it’s probably still within range.

If your camper uses dual propane cylinders with an automatic change-over regulator (the kind with a green/red indicator), you can perform a quick leak test yourself:

• Have the propane cylinder(s) filled and install them onto the camper. Be sure the pigtail connectors on both containers are secured tight by hand.
• Open the service valve on one cylinder all the way. Be sure the selector on the regulator is pointing to that cylinder.
• Light a stove burner (or pilot light) to purge any air out of the system, then shut off the burner, and ensure all other appliances and pilot lights are shut off.
• Close the service valve all the way. At this point, you have regulated pressure in the system and no flow (or demand).
• Observe the indicator on the automatic change-over regulator. It should be green.
• Wait 3 minutes and check the indicator again. If the indicator remains green, the system is leak free.

If the regulator’s indicator turned red within the three-minute time period, there may be a slight leak somewhere in the system. If so, don’t take any chances. Have it checked by a qualified RV tech. Also, if you smelled propane any time during the procedure, stop immediately and shut off the service valve on the container. Have the system checked for leaks with a manometer by a qualified tech.

Electrical System:

Before plugging in the power cord, check the condition of the battery and cables. If the battery (or batteries) is swollen or cracked, replace it. If you have a DC voltmeter, make sure the battery is holding a charge of at least 10.5 DC volts. Ensure the battery cables are connected tightly at the terminals with no “play” or movement. Then, plug in the power cord and check the battery voltage again. With the cord plugged in, the battery should be charging, which makes the voltage rise to about 13.5 DC volts. If not, check the fuse or breaker near the battery, and the fuse(s) at the converter inside the camper. Now check all the electric appliances and lights in the camper to make sure everything operates as designed.

With the battery connected, run the levelers (if equipped) or stabilizer jacks, then run the slide out(s) to be sure they seal all the way out and all the way back in.

Anything Else?

Absolutely! The roof and exterior moldings must be inspected for cracking or separating sealant. Clean and touch up anything suspicious. Sealants will not stick to any dirty surface! Be sure to use sealants that are compatible with the surface it is to be applied to. For instance, a rubber roof will need self-leveling sealant, but metal or fiberglass surfaces must be sealed with exterior silicone type sealant.

Note: Purchase all your RV sealants from an RV Dealership/store to ensure you have the proper type and color! Our store employees are trained to know which types of sealants to use for your camper’s various surfaces. There is no “one type fits all” sealant for your camper!

Now the dirty stuff…Tires and chassis equipment.

Make sure your tires are all in good condition. Look for weather-checking and/or cracks in the sidewalls and treads. Set the air pressures according to the data tag on the side of the trailer, NOT the maximum pressure on the tire’s sidewall!

Tighten the lug-nuts to proper torque setting. Inspect the springs, shocks (if equipped) and all suspension parts. If anything is loose or broken, do NOT tow or drive the coach! Any time you are driving or towing an RV, and you hear something grinding, tapping, squealing or clattering, do not take any chances! Have the vehicle inspected by a qualified technician before taking it on a long trip! (Note: all trailer chassis make some “popping” noises when turning or backing. This is normal)

If you have a travel trailer or 5^th wheel, be sure to service the hitch coupler or 5^th wheel plate. Inspect your tow vehicle’s hitch to ensure it is in proper working condition. Lubricate any moving parts on the hitch and towing equipment before using.

Check the running lights and electric brakes before taking it onto any roadway. To do this, connect the hitch and 7-way plug to the tow-vehicle (use the same truck you will use for camping trips).

Most trucks today have separate fuses for the trailer running lights. This is designed to ensure that if anything blows a fuse on the trailer while driving, the truck still has proper running lights. If a turn signal or marker light circuit is inoperative, check the TRAILER fuses in the truck’s fuse box.

Motorhomes should be inspected and serviced as any motor-vehicle would.

Wash and wax the camper. Clean the interior and check all the soft surfaces for rodent or insect intrusion. Check your windows and interior doors and drawers for function. Test your electronics and/or entertainment equipment to be sure they operate properly BEFORE you go on your first trip.

And finally, replace batteries in all smoke and CO detectors. Test the Propane leak detector with the battery installed. Check the fire extinguisher for the “green” tab to be sure it is in working condition. Operate the egress (Exit) window(s).

Make sure your keys operate all the entry and compartment door locks. Lubricate locks with silicone-type lubricant. Do not use petroleum-based lubricants on door locks.

RV Seasonal Checklist:

• Flush the water heater and sanitize the freshwater system
• Check propane system for leaks
• Operate all propane appliances and burners. Adjust if needed.
• Check the battery condition and cables. Ensure all connections are clean and tight.
• Check the charge level of the battery with the power cord connected (approx. 13.5 DC volts).
• Operate all AC and DC-powered appliances for proper operation.
• Operate levelers and check slide outs seals all the way in and out.
• Inspect and touch up all roof and sidewall moldings’ sealants.
• Check tire condition and set air pressures according to the data tag on the coach.
• Inspect the chassis springs and suspension for any loose or broken parts
• Inspect hitch equipment on both truck and trailer for proper function.
• Perform a running light and electric brake check with the tow vehicle hitched to the trailer.
• Test all safety items including CO, smoke and propane leak detectors and fire extinguisher.
• Check operation of any egress window(s).
• Check all entry and compartment door locks with your coach keys.

The dealership can provide a list of these and additional items for your camper or motorhome specifically.

Good luck, and happy camping!

- Keith Marshall

Master Certified Level 4 RV Technician